What's the best way to get a more premium, solid-feeling keyboard without soldering? Are there good custom gasket-mount cases?

The absolute best and easiest way to get a premium, solid, thocky or clacky keyboard without touching a soldering iron is building a hotswap barebones kit.

Hotswap PCBs come with socket holes pre-soldered onto the board. You literally just push your choice of mechanical switches straight into the PCB, snap on some keycaps, and you're done.

Are there good custom gasket-mount cases?

Yes, the market is flooded with fantastic gasket-mount aluminum and acrylic cases/kits. Because "gasket-mount" requires the internal plate to float on rubber or silicone strips isolated from the outer case, you generally buy these as a complete shell/kit (Case + Gaskets + Plate + Hotswap PCB) rather than dropping a generic PCB into a random aftermarket case.

Top-tier routes for a solid, custom gasket-mount feel include:

• Aluminum CNC Barebones Kits (e.g., Keychron Q-series or V Max series, MonsGeek M-series , or Zoom/Neo lines by OwLab/QK): These are solid blocks of CNC-machined aluminum. They weigh a ton (often 3 to 5+ lbs), have zero flex or hollow ping when modded right, and use sophisticated gasket structures.
• Budget/Mid-range Modular Kits (e.g., Zuoya GMK87 or similar): Highly modular, surprisingly solid once foam-tuned, and feature full gasket isolation.[1]
• Custom Stacked Acrylic/Specialty Cases (e.g., SM Keyboards ): If you want a boutique aesthetic like stacked acrylic or custom-milled materials with visible gasket tabs, specialty boutique makers sell custom-cut gasket cases tailor-made for standard 60% or 65% layouts.[1]

How to maximize that "Solid/Premium" feel without soldering:

1. Choose a heavy aluminum case: Weight equals perceived quality. An aluminum chassis eliminates hollow plastic resonance.
2. Switch and Stabilizer Modding: Buy pre-lubed switches or lube them yourself, and make sure the stabilizers (for the spacebar, shift, enter) are tuned and lubed—rattling stabilizers instantly ruin a solid feel.
3. The Tape & Force Mod: Adding a layer of painter's tape to the back of the hotswap PCB and ensuring proper foam/silicone dampening inside the case transforms a clanky board into a deep, solid acoustic masterpiece.

User Experiences

I found that starting with a good aluminum barebones kit completely changed my perspective. No soldering, just drop the switches in, and it feels heavier and more solid than anything off-the-shelf.

Gasket mount with some decent foam makes even a budget kit feel super cushiony and premium. It completely takes away that harsh bottom-out sting.

If you want to narrow down your options, tell me:

• What size/layout do you prefer? (65%, 75%, TKL, full-size)
• What is your approximate budget for the barebones kit?
• Do you care about wireless/Bluetooth or is wired fine?

Yes. If your goal is “premium, heavy, solid, but I never want to touch a soldering iron,” I’d specifically look for an aluminum barebones kit + hot-swap PCB + gasket mount.

The nice thing is that you can get surprisingly close to enthusiast-custom quality without soldering.

• Leobog HI75C Aluminum Gasket-Mount Kit - $74.09 (OZO Keyboards)
• MXRSKEY CK650 Kit - $169.99 (mechkeysshop)
• Neo60 Core Aluminum Barebones - $115.00 (Mechanical Keyboards)
• Glorious GMMK Pro Barebones - $79.99 (Best Buy)

What I'd look for

• CNC aluminum case — this is what gives you the genuinely dense, planted feeling. Aim for ~1.3 kg+ if you want that “chunk of metal” sensation.
• Hot-swap PCB — lets you change MX-style switches without soldering.
• Gasket mount — gives some controlled flex and isolates the plate from the case. It's not necessarily “more premium” than every other mount, but it's a very easy way to get a refined typing feel.
• PC/POM/FR4 plate — I'd start with PC for softer/deeper or FR4 for a somewhat firmer feel.
• Good stabilizers — this matters a lot. A $100 aluminum board with rattly stabs won't feel premium.
• Screw-in stabilizers if possible.
• QMK/VIA if you care about easy remapping.

Kits I'd seriously consider

Budget: MonsGeek M1/M1W

This is probably the first place I'd look. The M1 family gives you a substantial CNC aluminum 75% case, gasket mounting and hot-swap. Current guides put the barebones M1 around $70 and the wireless M1W around $110, depending on version.MKB Guide+1

The M1W is particularly compelling if you want wireless; the tradeoff is that current M1W versions use MonsGeek's own software rather than QMK/VIA.KeebKit

Midrange: Keychron Q1 Max Barebone

This is the “I want something that feels expensive and don't want to mess around” route. It's a full-aluminum 75% with a double-gasket mount, hot-swap PCB and QMK support. Current barebone pricing is around $190–200.KeyboardVerdict

More enthusiast/custom: Meletrix Zoom75 TIGA

This gets interesting if by “custom gasket case” you mean I want to experiment with the actual mounting system rather than just buy an aluminum keyboard.

The Zoom75 TIGA supports several mounting approaches and multiple plate materials, including PC, aluminum, FR4 and POM. It also has a hot-swap tri-mode PCB.KeebKit

65%: Bakeneko65

The Bakeneko is a particularly interesting enthusiast option. It's a cast-aluminum 65% with an O-ring mounting system and hot-swap QMK/VIA PCB. It's less of the conventional “gasket keyboard” formula, but it's a genuinely custom-oriented design.KeebKit

And if you want something really custom-looking, there are also smaller-run cases such as the Prism 60 and RNDKBD's printed gasket cases.

The build I'd personally target

If you're starting from scratch, I'd do:

75% aluminum gasket barebones → PC plate → hot-swap PCB → nice linear switches → thick PBT keycaps.

Something like:

• Case/PCB: MonsGeek M1W or Q1 Max
• Plate: PC
• Switches: Gateron/JWK/etc. linear around 55–60g
• Keycaps: thick PBT
• Stabilizers: properly lubed screw-ins
• Foam: don't automatically fill every cavity; start with the manufacturer's intended configuration

The important distinction is that “solid” and “gasket” pull in slightly different directions. A huge aluminum case gives you weight and rigidity, while the gasket mount deliberately lets the plate/PCB assembly move a little. You can get a board that is extremely solid on the desk while still having a cushioned key feel.

If you tell me your preferred layout (60/65/75/TKL), budget, and whether you want wireless, I can narrow this down to ~3 specific kits and explain which one I'd pick for a really premium, dense typing feel.

More enthusiast/custom: Meletrix Zoom75 TIGA

This gets interesting if by “custom gasket case” you mean I want to experiment with the actual mounting system rather than just buy an aluminum keyboard.

The Zoom75 TIGA supports several mounting approaches and multiple plate materials, including PC, aluminum, FR4 and POM. It also has a hot-swap tri-mode PCB.KeebKit

65%: Bakeneko65

The Bakeneko is a particularly interesting enthusiast option. It's a cast-aluminum 65% with an O-ring mounting system and hot-swap QMK/VIA PCB. It's less of the conventional “gasket keyboard” formula, but it's a genuinely custom-oriented design.KeebKit

And if you want something really custom-looking, there are also smaller-run cases such as the Prism 60 and RNDKBD's printed gasket cases.

The build I'd personally target

If you're starting from scratch, I'd do:

75% aluminum gasket barebones → PC plate → hot-swap PCB → nice linear switches → thick PBT keycaps.

Something like:

• Case/PCB: MonsGeek M1W or Q1 Max
• Plate: PC
• Switches: Gateron/JWK/etc. linear around 55–60g
• Keycaps: thick PBT
• Stabilizers: properly lubed screw-ins
• Foam: don't automatically fill every cavity; start with the manufacturer's intended configuration

The important distinction is that “solid” and “gasket” pull in slightly different directions. A huge aluminum case gives you weight and rigidity, while the gasket mount deliberately lets the plate/PCB assembly move a little. You can get a board that is extremely solid on the desk while still having a cushioned key feel.

If you tell me your preferred layout (60/65/75/TKL), budget, and whether you want wireless, I can narrow this down to ~3 specific kits and explain which one I'd pick for a really premium, dense typing feel.

The absolute best, most frictionless way to get a premium, solid, "thocky" keyboard without ever touching a soldering iron is by buying a hot-swappable barebones kit (or a fully assembled prebuilt).alexotos.com

Hot-swap PCBs feature little plastic-and-metal kailh sockets soldered at the factory, letting you push mechanical switches straight into the board by hand. Combined with a heavy aluminum CNC case and modern dampening foams, you get a luxury feel with zero soldering.

The Recipe for a Solid, Premium Build (No Soldering)

1. Start with a Gasket-Mount Barebones Kit: This gives you the case, PCB, plate, and dampening materials. You only need to add switches and keycaps.
2. Choose the Right Switches (Pre-lubed is key): Buy factory-lubed switches (like Gateron Jupiter, WS Yellow , or Akko V3 Cream ). Pre-lubed switches eliminate scratchiness and give you a deep, satisfying sound.
3. Pop Them In: Align the switch pins with the hot-swap sockets on the PCB and press down firmly.
4. Add PBT Keycaps: Thick double-shot PBT keycaps complete the heavy, hollow-free acoustic profile.alexotos.com

Are There Good Custom Gasket-Mount Cases/Kits?

Yes, the market is flooded with incredible hot-swap, gasket-mounted aluminum and custom chassis options that rival ultra-expensive group buys of the past:

• The Benchmark All-Rounder: Keychron Q-series Pro or Max (e.g., Keychron Q1 Pro or Q2/Q5/Q6). Full CNC-machined aluminum bodies, double-gasket designs, hot-swap, and QMK/VIA programmability. They weigh a ton and feel remarkably solid.luminkey.com
• The Budget/Mid-Tier King: Zuoya GMK87 / GMK67 / GMK108 kits. These budget-friendly gasket-mounted barebones kits punch way above their weight class, often including tri-mode wireless (Bluetooth, 2.4GHz, wired) and dampening layers for a fraction of the cost.[1][2]
• The Enthusiast Entry: Glorious GMMK Pro . A classic 75% layout aluminum gasket-mount board that is widely supported in the modding community, though Keychron has largely overtaken it in out-of-the-box acoustic quality.

Community Experiences

Getting started with a heavy gasket board

The surrounding hype is absolutely founded, even when compared to other Keychron models. It's missing a couple small features, and its tall, weighty build might not be for everybody, but it's a truly excellent mechanical keyboard with just about everything you need to get started

The Glorious GMMK Pro is the consensus mid-range hot-swap keyboard for someone wanting to build a custom keyboard without going full DIY. Premium CNC-machined aluminum chassis... gasket-mounted PCB for soft typing feel

To help narrow down the ideal case or layout for you, tell me:

• What size/layout do you prefer? (e.g., 65%, 75%, Tenkeyless/87-key, or full-size with a numpad)
• Do you need wireless capability (Bluetooth / 2.4GHz) or is wired-only fine?

Yes. If your goal is “premium, heavy, solid, custom-feeling, but absolutely no soldering”, I’d skip most cheap plastic customs and start with a CNC aluminum hot-swap gasket-mount barebones kit.

The nice thing is that you can get very close to enthusiast-custom quality with nothing more complicated than installing switches and keycaps.

What I’d look for

• CNC aluminum case — this is the biggest contributor to that dense, expensive feel.
• Gasket mount — gives you some controlled flex and a less harsh bottom-out than a rigid tray mount.
• Hot-swap PCB — lets you install/remove switches without soldering.
• Polycarbonate or FR4 plate — generally softer/more pleasant than a stiff aluminum plate.
• Good stabilizers — especially important for the spacebar, Enter, Shift, etc.
• QMK/VIA — makes remapping painless.
• A substantial internal weight if you really want that “brick on the desk” feeling.

My picks

• Keychron Q1 Barebone - $185.51 (KEYGEM)
• Keychron Q2 Barebone - $99.99 (newegg.com)
• MXRSKEY CK650 Kit - $169.99 (mechkeysshop)
• HJS AL75 V2 - $114.97 (OZO Keyboards)
• MRXSKEY SCC80 - $135.17 (OZO Keyboards)
• Createkeebs LuminKey80 - $239.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)

Best easy recommendation: Keychron Q1/Q2. The Q1 is 75%; the Q2 is 65%. Both give you the CNC aluminum + double-gasket + hot-swap recipe without getting into complicated custom-keyboard territory. The Q series is specifically designed around customization and QMK/VIA.Keeb Starter+1

Best value: Monsgeek. The M1/M2 family is particularly compelling if you want an aluminum board without spending enthusiast money. Current M-series boards combine CNC aluminum, gasket mounting, hot-swap PCBs and, on newer versions, very convenient disassembly.MKB Guide

More “real custom” feeling: LuminKey80. The LuminKey80 is a step up in enthusiast territory: CNC 6063 aluminum, copper weight, gasket mount, QMK/VIA and hot-swap tri-mode PCB. That's the sort of thing I'd look at if you want the board itself to feel like a premium object rather than just a nicer prebuilt.MKB Guide

If you want something inexpensive: the HI75C is surprisingly attractive. It's an aluminum 75% gasket board with hot-swap switches and a substantial foam stack for under $100 in the current listing. I'd expect it to feel much more substantial than a typical $50–80 plastic keyboard.

One important distinction

Don't assume gasket = solid.

A gasket mount can make a board feel soft, bouncy, or even slightly mushy. If by “solid” you mean “dense, heavy, no cheap plastic flex, but still comfortable”, I'd specifically target:

heavy aluminum case + moderate gasket compression + PC/FR4 plate + minimal foam.

That's a different experience from the ultra-soft “thocky” builds that are packed full of foam.

For example, the GMMK Pro uses a gasket-mounted aluminum chassis and is still a relatively firm-feeling implementation; the gasket system is more restrained than some of the very bouncy modern designs.MKB Guide

The build I'd personally do

For a 75%:

1. Aluminum gasket barebones — Keychron Q1 / Monsgeek M1 / LuminKey80
2. Hot-swap PCB
3. PC or FR4 plate
4. Medium-weight linear switches, e.g. ~55–65 g
5. Quality PBT keycaps
6. No giant foam stack initially
7. Tune/lube the stabilizers if necessary

That gets you the “$300 custom keyboard” feel without actually needing to solder anything.

If you tell me your preferred layout (60 / 65 / 75 / TKL / full-size), budget (e.g. $100 / $200 / $300+), and whether you want deep/thocky or crisp/solid, I can narrow it down to 3–5 specific kits and tell you exactly what switches/keycaps I'd pair with each.

Don't assume gasket = solid.

A gasket mount can make a board feel soft, bouncy, or even slightly mushy. If by “solid” you mean “dense, heavy, no cheap plastic flex, but still comfortable”, I'd specifically target:

heavy aluminum case + moderate gasket compression + PC/FR4 plate + minimal foam.

That's a different experience from the ultra-soft “thocky” builds that are packed full of foam.

For example, the GMMK Pro uses a gasket-mounted aluminum chassis and is still a relatively firm-feeling implementation; the gasket system is more restrained than some of the very bouncy modern designs.

The build I'd personally do

For a 75%:

The mechanical keyboard hobby has evolved to a point where you do not need to solder anything to get a world-class, premium, solid-feeling custom keyboard. "Hot-swappable" PCBs (which feature little plastic sockets allowing you to just push switches straight into the board) are now the gold standard even for high-end custom kits.

To achieve that heavy, solid, "thocky" or "creamy" premium feel without a soldering iron, follow this blueprint, followed by some of the best gasket-mount options available.

The Recipe for a Solid-Feeling, Premium Build (No Soldering)

1. Start with a CNC Aluminum Case (Barebones Kit): Plastic cases flex and sound hollow. An anodized or E-coated CNC aluminum case provides immediate heft (usually weighing 3 to 4+ lbs) and rigidity. Look for "barebones" kits, which come with the case, hot-swap PCB, plate, and foam pre-assembled; you just add switches and keycaps.
2. Choose the Right Plate Material: The plate holds the switches. FR4 (fibreglass) or PC (Polycarbonate) give a softer, more cushioned typing feel with gasket mounting, while Aluminum or Brass offer a stiffer, firmer bottom-out.
3. Use Factory-Pre-lubed or Hand-Lubed Switches: A solid feel is heavily tied to smoothness. Modern enthusiast switches (like HMX, WS, or Gateron oil/water kings) come expertly pre-lubed or can be easily lubed with a brush.[1]
4. Tune the Stabilizers: Rattly spacebars and enter keys ruin a premium feel. Buy screw-in stabilizers (if the kit supports them) and clip/lube/tune them properly, or buy high-quality pre-tuned plate-mounted stabs.

Are There Good Custom Gasket-Mount Cases?

Yes, the market is flooded with incredible hot-swap, gasket-mounted aluminum kits that rival custom group buys of the past.

• Keychron Q Max Series (e.g., Keychron Q1 Max or Q3 Max): A staple in the community. Full CNC aluminum bodies, double-gasket design, wireless (2.4GHz + Bluetooth) and wired capabilities, hot-swap, and great QMK/VIA software support. They are heavy, professional, and endlessly moddable.
• Wobkey Rainy 75: Widely praised as an out-of-the-box acoustic and tactile masterpiece. It features a stunning CNC aluminum chassis, a soft gasket-mount structure, and premium switches—all completely hot-swappable without a drop of solder.[1]
• Leobog Hi75: A budget-to-midrange enthusiast favorite. It’s an ultra-heavy aluminum 75% barebones kit featuring a gasket structure and a satisfying multi-functional knob, delivering a surprisingly high-end sound and feel for a fraction of boutique prices.[1]
• Akko MOD Series (e.g., MOD 007v3 / MOD 006): Akko offers phenomenal standalone aluminum gasket-mount DIY barebones kits that feature flex-cut hot-swap PCBs, multiple plate options (PC and Aluminum), and excellent dampening foams right in the box.[1]

To help narrow down the best option for your desk, let me know:

• What keyboard size/layout do you prefer? (75%, 65%, Tenkeyless, Full-size?)
• Do you need wireless capability (Bluetooth/2.4GHz) , or is wired-only fine?
• What is your rough budget for the barebones case?

Yes. If your goal is “premium, heavy, solid, but absolutely no soldering,” I’d look for a CNC aluminum, hot-swap, gasket-mount barebones kit rather than buying a cheap board and trying to mod it into something nicer.

The important distinction is that gasket mount doesn't necessarily mean soft or flimsy. A heavy aluminum case + relatively firm gasket + good plate can feel extremely substantial while still taking the edge off bottom-out.

What I'd buy

• GMMK PRO Barebones 75% - $119.99 (Glorious)

• Varmilo Sword68 Classic Aluminum Barebones - $134.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)

• LEOBOG Hi75C Aluminum Gasket Kit - $107.99 (newegg.com)

• Simpler60 V2 Keyboard Kit - $78.31 (iLumkb)

• Best straightforward choice: GMMK Pro. It's a CNC-aluminum 75% with hot-swap sockets and gasket mounting. At about $120 currently, it's particularly compelling if you want something that feels like a serious chunk of metal without entering $300+ custom territory.KeebKit+1

• Varmilo Sword68 is interesting if you want a 65% layout. It has a 6063 aluminum case, PC plate, FR4 PCB and hot-swap support. The combination should give you a more substantial case while keeping the typing feel relatively forgiving.

• Monsgeek M1-series is another one I'd seriously consider. Current guides specifically call out its CNC aluminum case, gasket mount, polycarbonate plate and hot-swap PCB as an unusually strong value.MKB Guide

• Keychron Q1/Q-series is the safer “just build it and enjoy it” option. The Q1 Pro, for example, combines aluminum, gasket mounting, hot-swap sockets and QMK/VIA.KeebKit+1

The recipe for a really premium feel

I'd prioritize things in roughly this order:

1. Heavy CNC aluminum case
2. Hot-swap PCB — no soldering
3. Gasket mount
4. Polycarbonate or FR4 plate rather than a very stiff steel plate
5. Good stabilizers
6. Good switches
7. Thick PBT keycaps

The case gives you that “solid object on the desk” sensation. The gasket/PC plate combination determines whether it feels pleasantly cushioned rather than like you're typing on a slab of metal.

And don't go overboard on foam. A lot of modern boards already have enough acoustic treatment; adding six layers of foam can actually make a good board sound dull.

One thing I'd avoid

If you're specifically chasing premium/solid, I'd skip the ultra-cheap $50–80 gasket boards despite some impressive specs. There are plenty of them now, but the gasket label alone doesn't guarantee a good case, consistent tolerances, or good stabilizers. Current kits have gotten good enough that I'd rather spend ~$120–180 on the chassis and put the rest of the budget into switches/keycaps.Lights & Kits

If you tell me 60/65/75/TKL/full-size + your budget (e.g. <$150, $200, $300), I can narrow it down to 3–5 genuinely good gasket cases/kits rather than the generic Amazon stuff.

Yes. If your goal is “premium, heavy, solid, and no soldering,” I’d skip the old-school solder-only custom route and buy a CNC aluminum, hot-swap gasket-mount kit.

The nice thing is that you can get very close to enthusiast “custom” quality without soldering at all: install the stabilizers, drop in switches, install keycaps, and you’re done.

• Qwertykeys Neo65 Core Plus - $170.00 (Mechanical Keyboards)
• Qwertykeys Neo75 - $134.00 (Mechanical Keyboards)
• Qwertykeys Neo75 Cu - $135.00 (Divinikey)
• Keychron Q2 Hotswap - $162.62 (Tomauri.com)
• GMMK Pro Barebone - $79.99 (Best Buy)

My picks

• Qwertykeys Neo65 / Neo65 Core Plus — best overall. This is probably where I'd start. The aluminum case gives you that dense, substantial feel, while the gasket/plateless options let you tune the board toward either softer or firmer typing. The current Core Plus is hot-swap and tri-mode, so zero soldering.KeebFinder
• Neo75 — if you want a 75%. A particularly good choice if you're coming from a conventional keyboard and want dedicated F-keys plus arrows. The current kit is aluminum, hot-swap and wireless, and is available around the mid-$100s.KeebFinder
• Neo75 Cu — if “solid” is the priority. The copper/brass-bottom version adds considerable mass. It's the kind of board I'd choose if you specifically want that “this thing is a chunk of metal” feeling rather than maximum flex.
• Keychron Q series — easiest/safest option. Less boutique, but very easy to source and build. The Q2, for example, is an all-metal 65% with a double-gasket design and hot-swap PCB.
• MODE Envoy — premium/boutique option. If you're willing to spend more, the Envoy is a genuine enthusiast-tier 60% with a carefully tuned gasket system and hot-swap PCB. It's more about machining and refined feel than features.KeebTracker

One important distinction

If by “solid-feeling” you mean heavy and rigid, don't assume you want the softest possible gasket mount.

I'd aim for:

CNC aluminum case + relatively firm gasket + non-flex-cut PCB + aluminum/FR4 plate

rather than a super-flexy PCB, lots of foam, and very soft Poron gaskets.

That gives you the premium dense “thock/clack” and controlled bottom-out feeling while still avoiding the harshness of a cheap tray-mount board. Gasket mounting itself is primarily about allowing the plate/PCB assembly to flex and cushion the keystroke.Keeb Starter

And hot-swap is the key feature for your no-solder requirement: you can change switches simply by pulling them out and inserting new ones.keebkit.com

If you tell me what layout you want (60/65/75/TKL/full-size) and your budget ($100, $200, $300+), I can narrow this down to 2–3 specific cases/kits and suggest switches + keycaps for a really premium build.

The best and easiest way to get a premium, solid-feeling keyboard without soldering is to buy a pre-built or barebones hot-swappable aluminum gasket-mount keyboard and tune it with pre-lubed switches and heavy PBT keycaps . Hot-swap PCBs let you push switches straight into the board by hand without touching a soldering iron , while heavy CNC aluminum cases eliminate hollow ping and flex for a dense, high-end feel.youtube.com+1[2]

Watch this overview on how easily you can assemble a custom mechanical keyboard using a hot-swap setup without any soldering:

7:41$100 CUSTOM Mechanical Keyboard - NO SOLDERING!73K views · 5 years agoYouTube · Toasty Bros

Top Pre-built and Barebones Gasket-Mount Options

Instead of piecing together a custom case from scratch (which can be pricey and prone to layout/compatibility headaches), modern aluminum mechanical keyboards come completely ready with integrated gasket structures, multi-layer dampening foam, and hot-swap sockets.[1]

Tips for Making a Hot-Swap Board Feel Massively Premium

• Upgrade the Switches: Choose factory-lubed switches (such as linear Gaterons or customized cream switches) to eradicate scratchy sounds and spring ping.[1]
• Mod the Stabilizers: Stabilizer rattle on the spacebar and shift keys ruins an otherwise solid build; use pre-tuned screw-in stabilizers or apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease.youtube.com+1
• Thick Keycaps: Swap stock keycaps for thick, double-shot PBT profile keycaps, which produce a deeper, more satisfying "thock" sound instead of a high-pitched clack.[1]

If you share your preferred keyboard size (like compact 65%, 75% with function keys, or full-size) and whether you need wireless capability , I can recommend the exact right barebones kit or pre-built board for your setup.