My keyboard feels scratchy. What's the best lub… | Parse
My keyboard feels scratchy. What's the best lubricant and guide for lubing my own mechanical keyboard switches?
Data as of Sep 24, 2026 · Based on 323 AI responses from ChatGPT Search and Google AI Mode · See how Parse measures this
To address scratchiness, the community standard for linear switches is Krytox 205g0 for a smooth feel. For tactile switches, thinner lubricants like Tribosys 3203 or 3204 are preferred to maintain their specific feel. For spring noise, use a thinner oil such as Krytox 105. Beginners may find G-Lube a simpler, all-around option, while an opener tool is essential for accessing internal switch components.
The industry standard for linear switches and stabilizers. It provides a reliable, buttery smooth feel. Users should note that its thickness requires precise application to avoid making switches feel sluggish or overly muted.
Best for tactile switches. The 3203 and 3204 formulas are thinner, which helps reduce scratchiness while preserving the distinct feedback tactile users expect. Avoid using thicker greases if you want to keep that snap.
How to Lube Switches on Your Mechanical Keyboard | Tom's Hardwarehttps://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/lube-switches-mechanical-keyboard
7%
The Ultimate Guide on Lubing Keyboard Switcheshttps://kineticlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-lubing-mechanical-keyboard-switches
5%
How to Lube Mechanical Keyboard Switches: Complete Guide | MKB Guidehttps://mkbguide.com/blog/how-to-lube-keyboard-switches
4%
How to lube your keyboard switches for an even smoother feelhttps://rog.asus.com/articles/guides/how-to-lube-your-keyboard-switches-for-an-even-smoother-feel/
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How to Lube Mechanical Keyboard Switches (2026 Guide) – Redragonshophttps://redragonshop.com/blogs/community/lube-mechanical-keyboard-switches-guide
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How to Lube Your Mechanical Keyboard Switches: The Traditional Way vs. the "Easy" Wayhttps://www.makeuseof.com/how-to-lube-keyboard-switches/
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The 3 Best Mechanical Keyboard Lubes on the Market - HHKBhttps://hhkeyboard.us/blog/keyboard-lube
2%
How to Remove Keyboard Switches Safely | Pull & Lube Guidehttps://hhkeyboard.us/blog/how-to-change-mechanical-keyboard-switches
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how to lube mechanical keyboard switches – MelGeekhttps://www.melgeek.com/blogs/melgeek-lab/how-to-lube-mechanical-keyboard-switches
Yes—if the scratchiness is coming from the switches, lubing them can make a very noticeable difference. The key is matching the lube to the switch type and using far less than you initially think.
Krytox 205g0 - $11.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)
Krytox GPL 105 - $9.95 (Thock King)
Tribosys 3203 - $15.32 (pantheonkeys)
Glorious G-LUBE - $9.99 (Glorious)
What I'd buy
Linear switches (Red, Yellow, Black, etc.): Krytox 205g0. It's the standard choice for smoothing the stem/housing contact surfaces.
To fix that scratchy feeling, you'll want to disassemble your switches and apply the right grade of lubricant to the friction points.
Best Lubricants for Switches
Add to list The undisputed gold standard for linear switches . It provides an ultra-smooth glide and a deeper "thocky" sound signature. It can also be used for tactiles if applied with extreme thinness.
Question: My keyboard feels scratchy. What's the best lubricant and guide for lubing my own mechanical keyboard switches?
The absolute best and most widely recommended lubricant for mechanical switch housings and stems is Krytox 205g0 , paired with oil specifically for the springs.
Question: My keyboard feels scratchy. What's the best lubricant and guide for lubing my own mechanical keyboard switches?
Tactile switches (Brown, Clear, Panda-style, etc.): Tribosys 3203. It's thinner and is less likely to diminish the tactile bump.
Springs:Krytox 105 oil. It's particularly useful for eliminating spring ping/crunch.
Clicky switches: I wouldn't lube the click mechanism; doing so can interfere with the intended click feel/sound.
If you have linears, I'd simply get 205g0 + 105. That's a very good first setup.
The basic process
You'll want:
Switch opener
Small size 0 or 00 paintbrush
Tweezers
Stem holder (optional but very convenient)
Lube station (optional)
Container/bag for keeping switch parts organized
A good beginner walkthrough is tomshardware.com, and Taeha Types' video is an excellent visual demonstration:
1. Remove and open the switch
If your keyboard is hot-swappable, pull the switches out with a switch puller. If they're soldered, you'll need to desolder them first. Open each switch and separate the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing.
2. Lube the bottom housing
Put a tiny amount of 205g0 on the brush and wipe most of it back off.
You want a thin, even sheen, not visible blobs of white grease.
Brush the two internal rails where the stem slides. Avoid getting a bunch of grease down inside the switch.
3. Lube the stem
For linear switches, lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces with 205g0.
This is where you want to be especially careful: too much lube can make a switch feel sluggish or overly damped.
For tactiles, don't coat the tactile legs heavily. Those legs interact with the metal leaf to create the bump, so excess grease there can noticeably reduce the tactile feel.
4. Lube the springs
The easiest method is bag lubing:
Put all your springs in a small zip-top bag.
Add a small amount of Krytox 105.
Inflate the bag slightly and seal it.
Shake it thoroughly.
Remove the springs and let excess oil distribute before assembly.
105 is thin enough to coat the spring effectively without turning it into a sticky mess.
5. Reassemble
Put spring → stem → top housing back together, making sure the stem orientation is correct. Then press the switch several times.
Test your first 2–3 switches before doing the whole board. This is probably the most important beginner tip: once you've put too much lube on 90 switches, cleaning them is considerably less fun.
The golden rule: less is more
If you're looking at a switch and thinking "I don't think there's enough lube on here," you're probably about right.
The correct application is generally a barely visible coating rather than a layer of grease. Tom's Hardware specifically recommends starting with less because adding more is much easier than removing excess.
Also, don't use random household lubricants, WD-40, or general-purpose grease. Mechanical-switch lubricants are chosen for their viscosity and compatibility with the switch materials.
If you tell me the exact switch you're using (e.g. Gateron Red, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, Gateron Oil King), I can give you the exact surfaces to lube and which ones to leave completely dry.
Krytox
If your switches feel scratchy, hand-lubricating them is the single best upgrade you can make. It transforms the acoustic profile and makes every keystroke feel buttery smooth.
The Best Lubricants
The gold standard for mechanical switches depends on whether you are working with linear or tactile switches:
The undisputed community favorite for linear switches. It is a thick, high-performance fluorinated grease that eliminates scratchiness completely without clogging the mechanism. (Can also be used very sparingly on tactile stems if you want to tone down ping, but avoid the legs if you want to preserve full tactility).
Thinner than 205g0, making them foolproof for tactile switches. They smooth out scratchiness while leaving the tactile bump crisp and sharp.
A pure synthetic oil primarily used for bag-lubricating springs quickly and evenly.
Step-by-Step Guide to Lubing Switches
1. Gather Your Tools
Lubricant: Krytox 205g0 or Tribosys 3204.
Brush : Size #0 or #00 fine-tip synthetic paintbrush.
Switch Opener : Compatible with your switch type (e.g., Cherry MX style).
Switch Puller & Keycap Puller
Tweezers
Lube Station (Optional, but keeps parts organized)[2]
2. Disassemble the Switches
Use your keycap puller to take off the keycaps, and your switch puller to pull the switches out of the keyboard (if hot-swappable) or desolder them.
Place a switch in your switch opener , press down, and pop the top housing off. Separate the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing. Line them up neatly.
3. Lube the Springs (Eliminate Ping)
The Fast Method : Put all your springs into a small Ziploc bag or airtight container, add 3–5 drops of Krytox 105 oil (or a tiny dab of 205g0), seal it, and shake vigorously.
The Manual Method : Use tweezers to pick up a spring and lightly brush the top and bottom coils with a tiny amount of 205g0.
4. Lube the Bottom Housing
Dip your brush into the 205g0 and wipe off almost all of it on the edge of the jar/container. Your brush should look barely glossy, not wet.
Lightly brush the slide rails (the tracks where the stem moves up and down) and a tiny touch around the center column hole. Less is more—if you see white globs, you've used way too much.
5. Lube the Stem
Hold the stem with your tweezers.
Lightly swipe the flat sides of the stem where they make contact with the housing rails.
Note for Tactile Switches: Skip the legs (the little protruding bumps on the side of the stem) unless you purposely want to dampen the tactile bump into a muted thud.[2]
6. Reassemble and Inspect
Drop the lubed spring into the bottom housing.
Place the stem back in (facing the correct direction).
Snap the top housing back onto the bottom housing until it clicks. Press the stem down a few times to ensure it moves freely and isn't sticking or feeling mushy.
If your switches feel scratchy, hand-lubing is one of the most effective fixes—but the right lubricant depends heavily on whether your switches are linear, tactile, or clicky.
Krytox 205g0 5ml - $11.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)
Tribosys 3203 - $15.32 (pantheonkeys)
Krytox GPL 105 Oil - $16.14 (ELOQUENT CLICKS)
Glorious G-Lube - $9.99 (Glorious)
What I'd use
Linear switches:Krytox 205g0. It's the classic choice and is thick enough to noticeably smooth scratchiness.
Tactile switches:Tribosys 3203 (or Carbon GS1). They're thinner and help preserve the tactile bump.
Clicky switches: Be very conservative with lubrication; too much can interfere with the click mechanism. Krytox 105 is a thinner option, but clickies generally shouldn't be lubed like linears.
Springs: Krytox 105 oil is excellent for eliminating spring ping/crunch. Bag-lubing is the easiest method.
For a first project, I'd buy 205g0 + a size 0/00 brush + switch opener + tweezers + stem holder. You don't really need an expensive lubing station.
Beginner guide
The key principle is less is more. You want a thin, even film—not visible blobs of grease. It's much easier to add lubricant than remove excess.
Remove the keycaps and switches.
If your keyboard is hot-swappable, use a switch puller. Otherwise you'll need to desolder them.
Open one switch at a time.
Separate the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing. Keep the parts organized.
Lube the bottom housing.
Put a tiny amount of 205g0 on your brush. Coat the two rails where the stem slides. You want a smooth sheen, not white grease piled up.
Lube the stem.
Lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces. For a linear, you can also lightly coat the stem pole. Again, you're aiming for a thin, uniform coating.
Lube the spring.
Easiest: put all your springs in a small zip bag/container with a few drops of Krytox 105, close it, and shake thoroughly. The springs should have a thin glossy coating, not visible pools of oil.
Reassemble.
Put spring → stem → top housing back together. Press the switch several times and make sure it returns normally.
Test your first few switches.
This is important. If they're still scratchy, add a little more. If they feel sluggish or mushy, you've used too much.
One important distinction
If you tell me the exact switch model (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Brown, Kailh Box White, Gateron Oil King, etc.) and whether it's linear/tactile/clicky, I can give you the exact lube, which surfaces to lube, and which surfaces to avoid. Tactile switches in particular need a different technique.
For a detailed step-by-step reference, this kineticlabs.com is a good starting point.
Yes—if the switches are scratchy, lubing them is one of the best DIY fixes. The key is choosing the lube based on whether your switches are linear, tactile, or clicky.
My recommendation
Linear switches:Krytox 205g0 — the standard choice. Use a very thin coat on the stem and housing rails.
Tactile switches:Tribosys 3203 — thinner, so it smooths the switch without killing much of the tactile bump.
Springs:Krytox GPL 105 — thin oil specifically suited to springs and spring ping. Bag-lubing is the easiest method.
Clicky switches: I generally wouldn't lube the click mechanism; doing so can substantially alter or ruin the intended click.
If you have ordinary MX-style linear Reds/Yellows/Blacks, I'd simply get 205g0 + 105.
Krytox GPL 205g0 - $11.99 (Mechanical Keyboards)
Tribosys 3203 - $15.39 (pantheonkeys)
Krytox GPL 105 - $16.23 (ELOQUENT CLICKS)
What you'll need
Switch opener appropriate for your switches
Small size 0 or 00 brush
Tweezers
Stem holder (optional but very convenient)
Small container/bowl for parts
Lube station (optional)
Switch puller
Keycap puller
A full beginner kit isn't necessary; the opener, brush, tweezers and lube are the important bits.
The basic process
Remove keycaps and switches.
If your keyboard is hot-swap, pull the switches out. If they're soldered, you'll need to desolder them.
Open a switch.
Keep the top housing, bottom housing, spring and stem together.
Lube the spring.
Put all the springs in a small plastic bag with a few drops of Krytox 105, seal it and shake thoroughly. You want a light coating, not wet springs.
Lube the bottom housing.
Put a tiny amount of 205g0 on your brush, wipe most of it off against the container, then lightly coat the two rails where the stem slides.
Lube the stem.
For a linear, lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces/rails. The most common beginner mistake is using way too much. You should see a very thin sheen—not blobs of white grease.
For tactiles, be careful around the legs.
Don't coat the surfaces that interact with the tactile leaf if you want to preserve the bump. This is why 3203 is generally preferable to 205g0 for tactile switches.
The golden rule
Less lube is better than more lube. Too much 205g0 can make a switch feel slow, mushy or strangely damped.
A very good beginner guide
tomshardware.com is a solid visual walkthrough, including the tools, spring bag-lubing and where to apply the grease.
If you tell me the exact switch you're using (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, etc.), I can tell you exactly which lube to use and which parts of that particular switch to lube or leave dry.
Add to list Thinner than 205g0, making them ideal for tactile switches because they reduce scratchiness without drowning out the tactile bump.
Add to list A thin oil used specifically for bag-lubing springs to eliminate metallic "spring ping".
Step-by-Step Lube Guide
Disassemble the switch : Use a switch opener tool to separate the top housing, stem, spring, and bottom housing. Organize them in a lubing station if you have one.
Lube the springs : Place all your springs into a small Ziploc bag, add 3–4 drops of Krytox 105 oil, seal the bag with air inside, and shake vigorously . Alternatively, manually brush a tiny dab of 205g0 on the top and bottom coils.
Lube the stem : Take a fine-tipped brush and apply a very thin coat of 205g0 or 3203 to the two outer side rails and the center pole.
Crucial note: If you have tactile switches , avoid putting lube on the protruding legs (the parts that hit the metal leaf) unless you want to accidentally mute the tactile bump into a linear feel.
Lube the bottom housing : Lightly brush a thin layer along the internal guide rails where the stem slides. Do not get lube on the metal contact leaf, as this can mess with switch actuation.
Reassemble : Snap the housing back together, test the switch for smooth travel, and reinstall.
Community Advice
I found that taking my time with a really fine brush and barely dipping it into the 205g0 made all the difference. Less is definitely more—if it looks wet, you used way too much.
For springs, bag lubing with 105 oil is an absolute lifesaver. It takes 10 seconds and completely kills the ping without turning the keyboard into a sticky mess.
To help narrow down the exact supplies you'll need, tell me:
Yes—if the scratchiness is coming from the switches themselves, lubing can make a huge difference. The best lubricant depends on whether your switches are linear, tactile, or clicky.
My picks
Krytox 205g0 - $7.95 (Divinikey)
TriboSys 3203 - $15.42 (pantheonkeys)
TriboSys 3204 - $7.49 (Little Keyboards)
Krytox GPL 105 - $9.95 (Thock King)
Linear switches:Krytox GPL 205g0 — the standard choice. Use a very thin coat; too much makes switches sluggish.
Tactile switches:TriboSys 3203 — thinner, so you're less likely to destroy the tactile bump. 3204 is a slightly thicker alternative.
Springs:Krytox GPL 105 oil — optional but excellent for eliminating spring ping. Bag-lubing is the easiest method.
Clicky switches: I generally wouldn't lube the click mechanism; lubrication can substantially change or mute the intended click.
Beginner-friendly method
You'll want a switch opener, small 0/00 brush, tweezers or stem holder, a small tray, and your lube.
Remove the switches from the keyboard. If it's hot-swap, use a switch puller; if soldered, you'll need to desolder them.
Open one switch at a time and keep its spring, stem, top housing, and bottom housing together.
Lube the spring with 105 if you're doing spring lubing. A few drops in a bag with all the springs, followed by shaking, coats them evenly.
Lube the bottom housing. Put a tiny amount on the brush and work it onto the two rails where the stem slides.
Lube the stem. Apply an extremely thin, even film to the sliding surfaces. - For linears, 205g0 can go on the stem's sliding surfaces/legs.
For tactiles, leave the tactile-contact legs dry. This is the most important beginner rule; heavy lube there can noticeably weaken the bump.
Reassemble and test one switch before doing the whole board.
If it feels slower or mushier rather than smoother, you used too much lube. Remove some rather than adding more.
The biggest trick is less than you think. You should generally see a thin sheen rather than visible blobs of grease.
Don't use WD-40, generic machine oil, or random household grease. Keyboard switches use very small clearances and plastics that aren't appropriate for arbitrary lubricants.
If you tell me your exact switch model (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, etc.), I can tell you exactly where to put the lube and which one I'd buy, including a step-by-step diagram-style guide.
The best overall lubricant for mechanical keyboard switches is Krytox GPL 205g0 , a high-grade synthetic grease that smooths out friction and delivers a deeper, dampened sound.[3]
Your choice of lubricant depends directly on the type of switch you have:
Linear Switches (e.g., Reds, Yellows): Use Krytox GPL 205g0 or Glorious G-Lube.
Tactile Switches (e.g., Browns, Pandas): Use a thinner lubricant like Tribosys 3203 or Krytox 105g0 to keep the tactile bump sharp. If using 205g0, apply a microscopic amount.
Springs (All types): Use Krytox GPL 105 oil for easy bulk application.
Clicky Switches (e.g., Blues): Do not lube clicky switches , as it ruins the click mechanism.[3]
🛠️ Required Tools Checklist
Before starting, ensure you have the following:
Switch Opener (MX or Box style compatibility)
Size 00 or 0 Fine Paintbrush (with synthetic bristles)
Stem Holder (or a 4-claw jewelry grabber)
Precision Tweezers
Small Resealable Ziploc Bag (for the springs)[5]
📖 Step-by-Step Lubing Guide
Step 1: Open the Switch
Place the switch flat onto the matching side of your switch opener.
Press down firmly until the outer plastic tabs snap open.
Separate the four pieces: the top housing, stem, spring , and bottom housing . Keep them grouped together.
Step 2: Lube the Bottom Housing
Dip your paintbrush lightly into the grease. Swirl it around the inner lid of your jar to wipe away any excess.
Paint a thin, translucent layer onto the two vertical slider rails where the stem moves.
Crucial: The lube should look like a wet sheen. If it looks white or opaque, it is too thick and will make your keys feel mushy. Avoid the metal contact leaf entirely.
Step 3: Coat the Springs (The Bag Method)
Place all your switch springs into a small Ziploc bag.
Add 10 to 15 drops of Krytox GPL 105 oil into the bag.
Blow air into the bag to puff it up, seal it, and shake vigorously for 60 seconds.
Remove the evenly coated springs with tweezers. Place one back onto the center post of your bottom housing.
Step 4: Lube the Stem
Secure the stem crucifix with your stem holder.
Brush a razor-thin layer of grease onto the two side sliders.
Lightly brush the flat front and back faces of the stem.
The Golden Rule for Tactile Switches: Do not touch the two protruding legs on the stem with lube, or you will lose the tactile bump. For linear switches, you can safely lube the legs for maximum smoothness.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Set the lubed stem back over the spring. Make sure the legs face the copper contact leaf of the bottom housing.
Snap the top housing back into place until it clicks firmly.
Press the switch in your hand a few times to evenly distribute the lubricant.
If you want to save time or ensure your keyboard layout matches your workspace perfectly, let me know:
What is the exact model of your keyboard (to check if it has a hot-swappable PCB)?
Do you know if your switches are Linear, Tactile, or Clicky?
I can give you custom tips on desoldering or layout assembly based on your setup.
Yes—if the switches are scratchy, hand-lubing can make a dramatic difference. The best lubricant depends on whether your switches are linear, tactile, or clicky.
Linear switches:Krytox GPL 205g0 — the classic choice. It produces a very smooth, buttery feel, but use a very thin coat; too much can make switches sluggish.
Tactile switches:Tribosys 3203 is my beginner recommendation because it's thin enough to smooth scratchiness without killing much of the tactile bump.
Springs:Krytox 105 oil is ideal for eliminating spring ping without adding much drag.
Clicky switches: Don't lubricate the stem/leaf unless you specifically want to alter the click. Lubing those parts can substantially reduce or eliminate the click.
The beginner-friendly method
You'll want a switch opener, fine brush, tweezers, stem holder, and somewhere to keep the tiny parts organized. A dedicated lube station is convenient but not necessary.
Remove and open one switch. Keep its spring, stem, top housing, and bottom housing together.
Lube the bottom housing. Put a tiny amount on your brush and wipe off the excess. Brush the two rails where the stem slides. You want a barely visible film—not blobs.
Lube the stem. - Linear: lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces and legs.
Tactile: be much more conservative, particularly around the legs/contact area, because heavy lube can soften the tactile bump.
Lube the spring. Put a couple drops of 105 on the springs in a small bag, shake them around, then let excess drain. This is much faster than individually brushing every spring.
Reassemble and test one switch. Before doing all 70–100 switches, make sure you actually like the resulting feel.
Repeat. The tedious part is doing the whole board, but consistency matters.
Most important tip:less lube than you think. If you can visibly see thick white grease on the switch parts, you've probably applied too much. It's considerably easier to add lube than remove it.
A good visual guide
switchandclick.com — it walks through opening the switch, bottom housing, spring, stem, and reassembly with photos.
If you tell me the exact switch name (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Brown, Akko Cream Yellow, etc.), I can tell you exactly which lube to use and which parts to lube/avoid for that switch.
— the standard choice. It makes scratchy linears substantially smoother.
Tactile switches:
— thinner, so it smooths the switch without killing the tactile bump. 3204 is a slightly thicker alternative.
Springs: Krytox 105 oil is excellent if you want to eliminate spring ping/crunch.
Tools: switch opener, size 00/0 brush, tweezers, stem holder, and a small tray. A lube station is convenient but absolutely not necessary.
Beginner lubing procedure
Remove the switches. If your keyboard is hot-swappable, use a switch puller. If soldered, you'll need to desolder them.
Open one switch at a time with the appropriate switch opener.
Lube the bottom housing rails. Put a tiny amount of grease on the brush, wipe most of it off on the jar, then brush a thin film along the two rails. You should barely be able to see the lubricant.
Lube the stem. Lightly coat the stem's sliding surfaces. With linears, you can also lightly coat the legs/pole. With tactiles, avoid the legs because lubricant there can noticeably reduce the tactile bump.
Lube the spring. Either brush it very lightly with 105 or bag-lube the springs with a few drops of 105 and shake them around.
Reassemble and test one switch before doing the whole board. If it feels sluggish, you used too much.
The most important beginner tip: don't try to make the parts look visibly coated. A thin, even film is what you want; blobs of 205g0 can actually make a switch feel slower.
A good detailed guide
kineticlabs.com is particularly useful because it shows exactly where to put the lubricant on the housing, stem, and spring.
If you tell me your exact switch model (e.g. Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Red, Akko Cream Yellow, Gateron Oil King, Holy Panda, etc.), I can tell you exactly which lube to use and which parts of that specific switch to lube or leave dry.
Reassemble and test.
Do one switch completely first, put it back in the keyboard, and compare it with an untouched switch. This will teach you what the correct amount of lube feels like before you do the other 60–100 switches.
Tribosys 3203 - $15.32 (pantheonkeys)
Glorious G-LUBE - $9.99 (Glorious)
