My wood deck is looking weathered. What's the best way to clean and re-stain it?

Yes—if the wood is structurally sound, a weathered deck can usually be brought back pretty nicely. The biggest factor is preparation, not the stain itself.

Best process

1. Inspect and repair first

• Replace any soft/rotted boards.
• Tighten or replace protruding nails/screws.
• Look for loose railings and damaged stairs.
• Don't stain over deteriorated wood.

2. Sweep and clean

• Remove furniture, leaves and debris.
• Apply a dedicated wood/deck cleaner according to its label.
• Let it dwell—many products call for roughly 15 minutes—then scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush.
• Rinse extremely thoroughly.

3. Be careful with the pressure washer

• A pressure washer is useful, but blasting the wood can gouge it and raise the grain.
• If you use one, a 45° tip around 1,200–1,400 psi, kept roughly 8–12 inches from the surface and moved with the grain, is a commonly recommended approach.
• For a relatively delicate/weathered deck, I'd favor a hose and good scrubbing over aggressive pressure washing.

4. Strip old finish if necessary

• If there is substantial peeling, flaky stain, or an incompatible existing finish, use a deck-stain stripper rather than simply staining over it.
• If the old finish is mostly gone and you're left with gray, bare wood, cleaning may be sufficient.

5. Sand after it dries

• Once completely dry, sand rough fibers, splinters and raised grain—typically around 60–80 grit for deck work.
• You don't need to sand the entire deck to bare wood unless the existing finish requires it.
• Remove all sanding dust afterward.

6. Let it dry thoroughly

• Give the deck roughly 24–48 hours of suitable drying time, depending on weather and the cleaner/stain manufacturer's instructions.
• A simple water-drop test is useful: if water readily soaks into the wood rather than beading, it's generally ready for stain.

7. Apply the stain

• For a weathered deck, I'd generally choose a penetrating exterior deck stain rather than paint.
• Transparent/semitransparent stain preserves more of the wood grain; solid-color stain gives considerably more uniform color and hides weathering.
• Apply in manageable sections, working with the grain, and follow the specific product's coverage and recoat instructions.
• Test the color in an inconspicuous spot first.

One important distinction

If you tell me what the deck looks like now—for example, gray bare wood, old peeling stain, black/green mildew, or mostly intact stain but faded—I can tell you whether I'd clean, strip, sand, or some combination, and what type/color of stain I'd use. A photo would make that recommendation much more precise.

Cleaning and re-staining a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but it completely transforms the outdoor space. Follow this step-by-step process for professional-looking results.

Watch this guide from The Home Depot to see a visual walkthrough on how to properly inspect and prep your deck before staining:

2:44 How to Prep a Deck for Staining | The Home Depot 245K views  · 4 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

Phase 1: Inspection & Prep

1. Inspect and repair : Walk the deck and check for loose boards, protruding nails or screws, and structural water damage. Replace any rotting or severely damaged wood. Hammer down any popped nails or swap them out for deck screws.
2. Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Sweep thoroughly, getting into the gaps between boards.
3. Determine old finish type (if applicable) : Rub a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol on the old stain. If it dissolves or lifts, it's a water-based stain ; if it doesn't budge, it's likely oil-based . (Stick with the same type or use an oil/alkyd formula over thoroughly stripped wood).

Phase 2: Cleaning & Stripping

1. Apply deck cleaner : Use a quality commercial wood cleaner or deck stripper (check out options or advice from Sherwin-Williams ). Apply it using a pump sprayer or roller.
2. Scrub the wood : Let the cleaner sit for about 15 minutes (don't let it dry), then scrub the surface thoroughly with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush to break down mildew, dirt, and gray weathered fibers.
3. Rinse completely : Rinse the deck meticulously with a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very low, safe setting (use a wide 40° fan tip and keep a uniform distance to avoid gouging the wood).
4. Dry thoroughly : Let the wood dry completely for at least 48 hours before moving on to staining. Test if it's dry by splashing a few drops of water on the wood—if it beads up, it needs more time; if it absorbs, you're ready.

Phase 3: Sanding & Staining

1. Lightly sand : Run a pole sander or hand sander over the deck surface to smooth out any raised wood fibers and open up the grain for better stain absorption. Sweep or blow away all dust.
2. Start staining the railings : Begin with the top rails and spindles using a brush or small roller, working from top to bottom.
3. Coat the floor boards : Use a roller on an extension pole or a staining pad to apply the stain, working 2 to 3 boards at a time from one end to the other. Maintain a "wet edge" to avoid lap marks. Back-brush if necessary to work the product evenly into the grain.
4. Cure time : Keep foot traffic off the deck for 24 to 48 hours, and wait a few days before moving heavy furniture back onto it.

If you want, let me know:

• Is your deck currently finished with an old coat or is it bare wood?
• What kind of wood type is it (cedar, pressure-treated pine, redwood)?

I can recommend the best type of stain (transparent, semi-transparent, or solid) for your specific project.

Yes—if the wood is structurally sound, a weathered gray deck can usually be brought back nicely. The most important part is preparation, not the stain itself.

Best process

1. Inspect it first

• Look for soft/rotted boards, loose fasteners, cracked boards, and damaged railings.
• Replace rotten wood before cleaning or staining.

2. Sweep and clean

• Remove furniture, leaves, dirt, and debris.
• Use a wood/deck cleaner rather than household bleach or an overly aggressive cleaner.
• Apply it in manageable sections, let it work for roughly 15 minutes, then scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush and rinse thoroughly.

3. Pressure-wash carefully—or don't

• A garden hose is often sufficient.
• If you pressure-wash, use roughly 1,200–1,400 psi, a 45° tip, 8–12 inches from the surface, and keep the nozzle moving with the grain. Too much pressure can scar the wood and leave fuzzy fibers.

4. Strip old finish if necessary

• If substantial old stain is peeling, flaking, or preventing water from soaking into the wood, cleaning alone isn't enough.
• Use a deck stain/finish remover appropriate for the existing coating, then rinse thoroughly.

5. Brighten and let it dry

• A wood brightener/restorer can help reverse the gray, weathered appearance and remove discoloration after stripping/cleaning.
• Let the deck dry completely—typically 24–48 hours, depending on weather and the product instructions.

6. Lightly sand rough areas

• Sand splinters, raised grain, and particularly rough spots. You generally don't need to aggressively sand the entire deck down to bare wood.

7. Do a water-drop test

• Sprinkle water on several areas. If it soaks into the wood rather than beading on the surface, you're generally ready for stain.

8. Apply the stain

• For most older decks, I'd favor a penetrating semi-transparent or semi-solid stain if you want the wood grain visible.
• Use a brush/roller designed for deck stain and work with the grain, maintaining a wet edge.
• Test the color in an inconspicuous area first; the same stain can look dramatically different on different species and ages of wood.
• Follow the particular stain's temperature, drying, and recoat requirements. Avoid staining in direct hot sun.

One important distinction

If your deck is just gray and weathered, don't automatically sand it aggressively. Weathered surface fibers can actually absorb stain well; excessive power-washing or sanding can damage the wood.

If you tell me what kind of wood it is (cedar, redwood, pressure-treated pine, etc.), whether there's currently stain on it, and roughly how old it is, I can recommend the best cleaning/stripping method and type of stain for your particular deck.

Revitalizing a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but the results are well worth it. Follow this step-by-step breakdown to get professional-looking results.

1. Prep and Inspect

• Clear the deck: Remove all furniture, plants, and decor. Sweep thoroughly and use a putty knife to clean debris out from between the boards.
• Inspect and repair: Check for protruding nails or screws (drive them flush or slightly below the surface) and replace any severely rotted or warped boards.
• Check the weather: Pick a stretch of 2 to 3 consecutive dry days with temperatures ideally between 50°F and 90°F and no rain in the forecast.

2. Clean and Strip

• Apply deck cleaner: Spray or roll a quality oxygen bleach-based deck cleaner or wood stripper onto the surface.
• Scrub: Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes (don't let it dry out), then scrub vigorously with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush.
• Rinse: Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very low, wide-fan setting so you don't gouge or scar the soft wood fibers.

3. Dry and Sand

• Dry completely: Give the wood at least 48 hours to dry out entirely. You can test it by splashing a few drops of water on the wood; if it beads up, it's still too wet. If it absorbs, you're good to go.
• Sand the surface: Lightly sand any rough patches, raised grain from the water, or stubborn remaining old finish using an 80-grit or 120-grit sandpaper on an orbital sander.

4. Apply the Stain

• Choose your opacity: Pick a clear sealer, transparent stain, semi-transparent stain, or solid color stain depending on how much natural wood grain you want to show through.
• Apply evenly: Work in the direction of the wood grain using a stain pad, roller, or brush. Avoid applying too thick of a coat, and don't stain in direct, blazing sunlight, which causes the product to dry too fast before sinking in.

Watch this helpful guide on how to properly clean and prep your deck before applying stain:

2m How to Prep a Deck for Staining | The Home Depot 244K views  · 4 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

If you'd like, let me know:

• What kind of wood your deck is made of (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood)?
• Whether there is an old failing stain currently on it?

I can give you recommendations on the best type of stain to use.

Refinishing a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but it completely transforms your outdoor space. Plan for a 2-to-3-day window to allow proper drying time between washing and staining.

Phase 1: Preparation and Cleaning

1. Clear and Inspect : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Hammer down any protruding nails or screws so they sit flush or slightly below the surface.
2. Apply Deck Cleaner/Stripper : Wet the wood with water, then apply a commercial wood cleaner or stripper using a synthetic-bristle brush or roller. Scrub thoroughly to break down old failing finish, dirt, and mildew. Do not let the cleaner dry on the wood; mist it lightly with water if needed.
3. Rinse : Wash away the solution using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a low, wide setting (hold it far enough away to avoid gouging or "furring" the wood grain).
4. Sand (Optional/As Needed) : Once dry, use an 80-grit orbital sander on any stubborn remaining stain patches, raised grain, or rough handrails to smooth the surface. Blow away all dust with a leaf blower.

Phase 2: Drying

• Wait for Moisture to Drop : Let the deck dry completely—typically 48 hours depending on weather and humidity. Test it with a moisture meter or the classic droplet test (if water beads up, it's too wet; if it absorbs, you're ready).

Phase 3: Staining

1. Choose the Right Tool : Match your applicator to your product. Use a natural-bristle brush for oil-based stains and a synthetic-bristle brush for water-based formulas. Grab a paint pad or roller for broad surfaces.
2. Start with Details : Begin by cutting in along railings, posts, and the gaps between decking boards with a brush.
3. Roll the Boards : Apply the stain to the main floor boards using a long-handled roller or flat pad applicator, working in even strokes along the length of the grain (covering 2-to-3 boards at a time). Avoid working in direct, blazing sunlight so the stain doesn't dry too fast.
4. Cure : Keep off the deck for at least 24 to 48 hours before placing furniture back or walking heavily on it.

Watch this helpful step-by-step tutorial from The Home Depot and This Old House to see the ideal technique for prepping and rolling stain onto your deck:

2m How To Refinish a Deck | The Home Depot with @thisoldhouse 162K views  · 5 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

If you want to narrow down the products, tell me:

• Is there still old stain on the wood, or is it down to bare wood?
• Do you prefer a transparent, semi-transparent, or solid stain?

Yes. For a weathered wood deck, prep is more important than the stain itself. The goal is to get back to clean, sound, porous wood before applying a new finish.

The best process

1. Inspect and repair first

• Replace boards with rot or serious splitting.
• Set protruding screws/nails.
• Sand down major splinters and rough areas.

2. Remove furniture and sweep thoroughly. Get leaves, dirt and debris out of the gaps.
3. Clean the wood with a dedicated deck cleaner. Apply it according to the label, generally keeping the surface wet for about 15 minutes. Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush, working with the grain. This removes dirt, mildew and weathered wood fibers.
4. Rinse extremely well. A garden hose is safest. If you use a pressure washer, keep it around 1,200–1,400 psi, use a 45° tip, stay roughly 8–12 inches away, keep it moving, and work with the grain. Too much pressure can permanently fur or gouge the wood.
5. Strip the old finish if necessary. If the existing stain is peeling, heavily built up, or you're changing finishes, use a deck-stain stripper rather than simply coating over it. If the old finish is largely gone and the wood is just gray/weathered, cleaning may be sufficient.
6. Let it dry completely. Give it at least 24–48 hours of dry weather. Before staining, sprinkle water on the deck: if it soaks into the wood rather than beading, you're ready.
7. Lightly sand where needed. An orbital sander with roughly 80-grit paper works well for rough fibers, splinters and stubborn areas. Don't try to sand the entire deck perfectly smooth—the stain needs some wood texture to penetrate.
8. Choose the right stain. For a significantly weathered deck, I'd generally choose a penetrating semi-transparent or semi-solid stain rather than a clear sealer. It gives you UV protection while still looking like wood. If the boards are badly mismatched or you're trying to hide extensive discoloration, a solid-color stain is more forgiving.
9. Apply carefully. Work in manageable sections, following the manufacturer's coverage and recoat instructions. Brush stain into the gaps and don't allow puddles or shiny areas to remain. Test the color in an inconspicuous spot first.

One important mistake to avoid

Don't pressure-wash aggressively and then immediately stain. A deck can look dry on the surface while still holding moisture deeper in the wood. And don't stain if rain is expected; many manufacturers recommend a dry window of roughly 24–48 hours.

If you tell me what kind of wood your deck is (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, etc.), whether there's currently stain on it, and whether that stain is peeling or just faded, I can give you a specific cleaning/stripping/sanding/staining plan.

Yes—if the boards are structurally sound, a weathered deck can usually be brought back quite nicely. The key is good preparation; staining over dirt, mildew, or loose old finish is the fastest way to get a disappointing result.

The process I'd use

1. Inspect first

• Replace boards that are soft, rotted, badly cracked, or structurally questionable.
• Tighten protruding screws/nails.
• Check railings and stairs carefully.

2. Sweep and clean

• Remove furniture, leaves, and debris.
• Apply a dedicated wood/deck cleaner with a pump sprayer.
• Let it dwell according to the product directions—many cleaners call for roughly 15 minutes.
• Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush, working with the grain.
• Rinse extremely thoroughly.

3. Pressure-wash only if needed

• A garden hose is gentler and often sufficient.
• If you use a pressure washer, use a relatively low pressure and a wide fan tip. One manufacturer recommends about 1,200–1,400 psi, holding the nozzle 8–12 inches away and spraying with the grain. Too much pressure can permanently furrow soft wood.

4. Strip old stain if necessary

• If there is significant old stain/sealer remaining, use a deck-stain stripper rather than simply putting new stain over it.
• After stripping, follow the product's neutralizing/brightening instructions and rinse thoroughly.

5. Let it dry completely

• Don't rush this. Depending on weather, allow roughly 24–48 hours.
• A useful test: sprinkle water on the boards. If it soaks into the wood, rather than beading up, the deck is generally ready for stain.

6. Sand the rough areas

• Lightly sand splintered/rough areas and any raised wood fibers.
• You don't necessarily need to sand the entire deck down to bare wood unless you're trying to completely remove an existing finish.

7. Choose your stain

• Transparent: most natural-looking, but shows weathering and imperfections.
• Semi-transparent: usually my choice for an older deck—it adds color while retaining some wood grain.
• Solid stain: best if the wood is heavily weathered or has uneven discoloration; it gives much more uniform color but looks more like paint.

8. Apply the stain

• Pick a dry period with no rain expected for at least 24–48 hours.
• Avoid the hottest part of the day and direct, intense sunlight.
• Work with the grain, maintaining a wet edge to prevent lap marks.
• A roller/pad is efficient for the deck boards; use a brush to work stain into cracks, edges, and between boards.
• Don't automatically apply two coats—follow the specific stain manufacturer's instructions.

9. Give it time to cure

• Keep furniture and foot traffic off it for the period specified by the stain manufacturer; 24–48 hours is common, while some products take longer.

One important distinction

If your deck is gray and weathered but has little/no remaining finish, cleaning + light sanding + a quality semi-transparent stain is relatively straightforward.

If it's already coated with an old solid stain/paint that's peeling, I'd take a different approach—stripping/scraping and more extensive sanding may be necessary.

If you tell me what kind of wood it is (cedar, redwood, pressure-treated pine, etc.), whether it currently has stain/paint on it, and roughly how old it is, I can give you a specific step-by-step restoration plan and recommend the right type of stain.

Cleaning and re-staining a weathered wood deck takes a solid weekend , but it completely transforms the space. Follow this step-by-step process for professional-looking results:

1. Prep and Inspect

• Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Sweep the surface thoroughly.
• Check fasteners : Walk the deck with a hammer or mallet. Drive any protruding nails or screws flush (or slightly below) the surface so they don't snag your sander or stain pad.
• Protect surroundings : Wet nearby plants and shrubs with water, and use plastic sheeting or painter's tape to protect your siding.

2. Clean and Strip

• Apply deck cleaner/stripper : Wet the wood and apply an oxygen-bleach deck cleaner or a dedicated wood stripper (using a pump sprayer or roller) to break down old failing finish, dirt, and mildew.
• Scrub : Work the solution into the wood grain using a stiff-bristle, long-handled scrub brush. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes without letting it dry out.
• Rinse : Wash the deck clean using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very low, wide setting (keep the nozzle at least 12 inches from the wood to avoid gouging the grain).

3. Sand (Optional but Recommended)

• Let it dry : Allow the wood to dry completely, usually 48 hours.
• Smooth the surface : Use an orbital sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining stubborn stain spots, rough patches, or "fuzz" raised by washing. Blow away all the dust when finished.

4. Apply the Stain

• Check the weather : Pick a dry weekend with moderate temperatures (50°F to 80°F) and no direct, blazing sunlight , which causes the stain to dry too fast before absorbing.
• Do the railings first : Use a paintbrush to coat the railings and balusters, working from top to bottom.
• Stain the floorboards : Use a flat paint-pad applicator or brush, going in the direction of the wood grain. Coat 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end.
• Wipe excess : If using a penetrating stain, wipe away any pooling excess with a clean rag after a few minutes so it doesn't dry sticky.
• Cure : Keep foot traffic off the deck for at least 24 to 48 hours.

Watch this helpful guide from The Home Depot to see the cleaning and scrubbing process in action:

1m How To Refinish a Deck | The Home Depot with ...161K views  · 5 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

To help narrow down your approach, what type of stain (transparent, semi-transparent, or solid) and wood type are you working with?

Yes. For a weathered wood deck, the best results come from preparation rather than simply putting new stain over the old finish.

The process I’d use

1. Inspect and repair first

• Replace rotten, badly cracked, or warped boards.
• Tighten/replace protruding fasteners.
• Remove furniture and sweep thoroughly.

2. Determine whether old stain is still present

• If the deck is essentially bare, weathered gray wood, use a wood/deck cleaner.
• If there's significant old stain, especially peeling or uneven stain, use a deck stain/finish stripper, followed by a wood brightener/neutralizer.
• Don't assume a new stain will hide an old, failing finish—it can lead to poor adhesion and peeling.

3. Clean it

• Wet the deck, apply a purpose-made wood-deck cleaner, and let it dwell according to the label—many products are around 15 minutes.
• Scrub with a stiff synthetic-bristle brush with the grain.
• Rinse extremely well.

4. Pressure-wash carefully, if needed

• You don't need a pressure washer; a hose and vigorous scrubbing are safer.
• If you use one, don't blast the wood at close range. Manufacturer guidance commonly calls for a fan tip, keeping the nozzle roughly 8–12 inches away and moving with the grain. Excessive pressure can gouge the softer wood fibers.

5. Let it dry completely

• This is crucial. Depending on weather and the wood, give it roughly 24–72 hours.
• A simple test: sprinkle water on the surface. If it soaks into the wood rather than beading up, it's generally ready to accept stain.

6. Lightly sand

• Once dry, sand rough/raised fibers and remaining loose finish. An orbital sander with roughly 60–80 grit works well for weathered decking. Don't try to sand the entire deck to bare wood unless necessary.
• Sweep/vacuum all sanding dust afterward.

7. Choose the stain

• Semi-transparent stain: My usual choice if the wood still looks reasonably good. It lets the grain show and is easier to maintain.
• Solid stain: Better if the deck is heavily weathered, mismatched, or has lots of cosmetic imperfections. It gives much more uniform color but looks more like paint.
• For a deck that's already gray and beat-up, I'd generally lean toward a quality semi-transparent stain if the wood is sound, or solid stain if appearance is too uneven to restore.

8. Apply it properly

• Follow the specific stain manufacturer's coverage and drying instructions.
• Brush/roll with the grain, working in manageable sections and maintaining a wet edge.
• Don't apply in blazing sun or when rain is imminent. Some manufacturers recommend having 24–48 hours without rain around the application.
• Pay particular attention to end grain and the spaces between boards, but don't allow puddles of stain to remain.

One important caveat

If the deck has deep rot, widespread soft spots, structural cracking, or boards that crumble when probed with a screwdriver, cleaning and staining won't fix the underlying problem. Those boards should be replaced first.

If you tell me what type of wood it is (pressure-treated pine, cedar, etc.), whether there's currently stain on it, and roughly how gray/rough it is, I can recommend the specific cleaning/stripping approach and what type of stain I'd use.

Restoring a weathered wood deck takes a bit of elbow grease, but it completely transforms your outdoor space . Follow this step-by-step guide to get professional-looking results.

Watch this helpful guide from The Home Depot on how to prep your deck for staining:

2m How to Prep a Deck for Staining | The Home Depot 241K views  · 4 years ago YouTube · The Home Depot

1. Prep and Inspect

2. Clear the deck : Remove all furniture, planters, and debris. Sweep the surface thoroughly.

3. Check for damage : Walk the deck and look for rotted wood, wobbling posts, or loose boards. Screw down any popping or protruding nails/screws flush with the wood surface. Replace any severely damaged boards.

4. Protect surrounding areas : Tape plastic sheeting or drop cloths over nearby siding, brick, and delicate plants. Pre-wet nearby grass and shrubs with water to dilute any runoff from cleaners.

5. Clean and Strip

6. Apply a deck cleaner or stripper : Use a quality wood cleaner or stripper (depending on whether you have old, peeling finish to remove). Apply it using a pump sprayer or roller.

7. Scrub : Let the cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes (without letting it dry out completely), then scrub the surface with a stiff, synthetic-bristle brush to lift embedded dirt, mildew, and gray wood fibers.

8. Rinse : Rinse thoroughly using a garden hose or a pressure washer on a very wide, low-pressure setting (15° to 25° fan tip, kept at least 12 inches from the wood to avoid gouging).

9. Sand (if needed) : If the grain raised up "fuzzy" or stubborn stains remain, touch up those spots with an orbital sander (80-grit paper) once the wood dries.

10. Dry Completely

• Allow the deck to dry thoroughly. This usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the weather.
• The moisture test : Sprinkle a few drops of water on the wood. If it beads up, the wood is still too wet; if it absorbs into the board, you are ready to stain.

4. Apply the Stain

5. Check the forecast : Pick a stretch of dry weather with temperatures consistently between 50°F and 90°F. Avoid direct, blazing midday sun if possible, as it can make the stain dry too fast.

6. Choose your stain : Decide between transparent, semi-transparent, or solid stain based on how much natural wood grain you want to show through. (Make sure to check compatibility if you are applying over remnants of an old finish).

7. Stain in sections : Work in the direction of the wood grain, coating 2 to 3 boards at a time from end to end to avoid lap marks. A staining pad on a long handle or an appropriate brush works best for flat boards, while a smaller brush handles railings and balusters.

8. Apply thin coats : Avoid over-applying or pooling the stain; thin, even coats absorb and wear much better than thick globs.

Check out product options and guidelines on retailer sites like Lowe's Deck Care Guide before you head out to buy supplies.

If you'd like, let me know:

• What type of wood your deck is made of (pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood)
• Whether there is an existing old finish/stain on it right now

I can help you pick the exact right type of stain or stripper for your setup.